Day
18
Robert
and I drove along the Gulf Coast through Grand Bay, Alabama Port, and Bayou Le
Batre (proclaiming itself “The Seafood Capital of Alabama,” with signs for
shrimp, grouper, flounder, and cigar minnows), and out over a tall hump of a
bridge to Dauphin Island. In Alabama
Port, we passed the Clyde Sprinkle Volunteer Fire Station. Later in the day, I looked Clyde Sprinkle
up. He died at the age of 94, in
2005. He owned and operated Sprinkle’s
Grocery Store and Sprinkle’s Can Company and he was a co-founder of the fire
station in Alabama Port. A note on
rootsweb.com indicates that as late as 2000, he was “a joy to listen to and had
such spirit.”
The
predicted rain never arrived, despite thick cloud cover and oppressive
humidity. A stiff breeze was blowing as
we pulled onto the Mobile Bay Ferry—our craft was the Marissa Mae Nicole—for the trip to Fort Morgan. We were sent on our way by a blue heron patrolling
the dock, and by flocks of pelicans. The
pelicans are something of a mystery. No
one knows where they go in the winter: Mississippi? Florida?
Mexico? Scientists are tagging
them to see.
It
took forty-five minutes to get to Fort Morgan, chugging over choppy
seas. We passed more pelicans and
several oil rigs. We hung out with a
worker on the boat who grew up north of Minneapolis. There was no reason to ask him why he lives
here now, but Robert did anyway. When
the man said, “Winters,” Robert—a native of Joliet, Illinois—laughed in knowing
solidarity.
Once
we docked, I let Robert off to ride and drove along the shore, past houses in
pastel shades of yellow, green, blue, red, and gray. Almost all of them were built on tall posts
on the beach, in what seems like random relation to each other. They are rustic rather than grand: faded and weathered. The
overall effect is informal and charming.
At
Gulf Shores, I drove north, over a toll bridge crossing the Wharf Parkway and
Brown Lane. The toll collector,
anticipating tomorrow, wished me a happy Mother’s Day, as though my maternal
status was tattooed on my forehead. I
drove to Foley, which was having an arts festival. I parked the car and strolled through the
park where the festival was being held.
At one booth, I stopped to admire a piece of stained glass. “I love this,” I said, “but I’m traveling and
I’m afraid it might break.”
A
woman standing next to me overheard.
“Where
are you from?” she asked. She was young
and heavy, with pale, pocked skinned.
“California.”
“Oh! California,” she murmured, as though I’d said
I might be having an allergic reaction to shellfish. And then, “I’ve heard about California.”
“Heard
what?”
“Just
how it’s different.”
We
smiled at each other. It made me feel as
though I wasn’t the only one wondering.
We both were, across the divide. Both hearing stories, trying to imagine
ourselves living unimaginable lives.
We
came to rest in Pensacola. On our way to
dinner at the Oyster Barn, the sky finally opened, shedding rain. Just as we pulled into the parking lot of the
restaurant—a little shack overlooking the bayou and a lovely bridge—the rain
let up, and we went in. Robert had his
raw oyster fix. I watched some young men
fishing on a dock. The rain started
again, but they kept at it.
At
a table next to ours, a young father and his seven-year-old son ate oysters and
hush puppies. They knew the owner and
all the waitresses, who ruffled the kid’s hair and teased him. The father let the kid be teased, let him
answer questions as though he was a regular person, not as if his own
self-image was wrapped up in whether his kid proved sufficiently smart or funny
or cute.
The
owner of the restaurant approached them and introduced them to an elderly man
who had been sitting at the counter.
“I’ll pay you if you take him off my hands,” he said, comically at his
wits’ end. “He eats here every
night.”
The
elderly man didn’t know the younger man or his son, but they all began to
talk. The old man sat down. “Do you like your teacher?” he asked the boy,
who said he did. The owner went back to
the kitchen.
They
talked for another ten minutes, until the elderly man left the restaurant. The father did not seem irritated to have a
stranger at his table. The little boy
was polite: talkative but not insistent on being the center of attention. And the elderly man, who ate alone at an
oyster bar every night, was gracefully included in someone else’s family for a
few minutes.
It
was really quite extraordinary. It felt
like something I had never seen before, this human dance in which all the
participants knew exactly where to put their feet.
Until
five years ago, I lived only a few miles away from my mother. She dropped in unannounced several times a
week, mainly to see the kids, one or the other of whom was usually still around
then. We often went out to eat together,
and she was always at our Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. At Thanksgiving, she brought Marie Callendar
peach pies, because she didn’t like apple or pumpkin or pecan. At Christmas, she proclaimed routinely that
“it’s not my holiday” and didn’t bring presents. Perversely, though, she bought almost every
ornament that hangs on my tree to this day.
She
was part of our everyday lives.
Occasionally,
we traveled with her. We took two
cruises together—one to Alaska and another to Hawaii. Once, when my then-husband was away, she and
the kids and I drove to Disneyland for a few days.
On
the drive home, merging from 580 onto 680, I was nearly cut off by a woman who
tried to squeeze past me on the ramp.
“You bitch,” I said more to myself than to anybody else, positioning the
car to prevent her from passing me.
My
mother was furious with me. “Gina!” she
cried, tipping her head toward the back seats, where my kids, aged 11 and 8,
were sitting. “I don’t like that kind of
talk!”
Not
a minute later, we were safely on 680 heading north, and she rolled down her
window as the offending driver passed us on the right. “Asshole!”
she yelled, both middle fingers extended prominently. She was 77 years old.
The
four of us laughed so hard. And the kids
and I still do, when one of us brings it up.
It reminds us that my mother had
spirit, that she was never afraid of confrontation, that she was funny as hell
and knew it, but could laugh at herself a little, too.
On
the drive back to the hotel, the rain came down so hard that the windshield
wipers couldn’t keep up. The thunder
felt as though it was inside my body. I
couldn’t stop thinking about the old man driving home. I hope he has the kind of house that looks
cozy from the outside. I hope he has an
overstuffed chair to sit in, and a quilt to put over his legs that someone made
just for him.