Day 23
Highway this morning edged in
tall, thin pines and orange, purple, and yellow wildflowers growing in the
grass along the shoulder. And then, all
of a sudden, the pines opened onto an enormous meadow: green, un-mowed and a
little shaggy, vast. It was a kind of
gift, a glimpse into what is hidden and enchanted.
I’ve noticed that birds that
look like egrets hang out near the cows munching in the fields. So I googled it and found that they are
cattle egrets—a kind of heron—and they hang out with cows because cows’
shambling gaits cause insects to rise from the grass. Cattle egrets need insects to survive. This is called commensal feeding, because the
egrets profit from the relationship, but the cows don’t. The Internet is a wonderful thing.
Lake City is another in a
string of small Florida towns: a mix of the pastoral and the ugly ordinariness
of mobile-home sales, fast-food and barbeque joints, churches, real-estate and
insurance offices. And flower
shops. Small, southern towns have a lot
of florists. Do people really have enough money to buy fresh
flowers on a regular-enough basis to keep these shops in business? The one in Lake City has a sign out front:
Life Is the Flower; Love Is the Pot.
A large percentage of roadside
business in the south is devoted to selling, repairing, and repossessing
mobile-homes. I don’t remember this from
the last time I was here. I suspect this
hints at something fundamental that is changing in this country. It is yet another facet of life that is so
different from mine that I can’t claim really to understand it. How do
you live in a double-wide? In one of
those parks? I simply do not know.
And that reminds me how hard it
is to know how anybody really lives. I
remember Oprah hosting an early show about stay-at-home moms. And in her genuine, nonjudgmental way, she
asked them, What do you do all day?
Really, what do you do? She
didn’t know.
I don’t know how to live in a
small town (as opposed to a suburb). I
don’t know how to live a life that involves going to an actual job every
day. I don’t know how people live where
it snows. (I did it in college, but
somehow, that doesn’t count. Someone
else drove me around and cooked my food.)
In a weird way, thinking about
how other people live is like thinking about death. You just can’t quite put yourself there.
My mother grew up in an
orphanage, without parents. I simply
cannot imagine how she survived. But she
always had remarkably little curiosity about how other people lived. I would muse about life on farms, something
that, as a young adult, I convinced myself I would love. (I realize now it was because I had heavily
romanticized attitudes about livestock and homemade pie.) And my mother would
say impatiently, You would hate it. It’s
just like your life here, except you would have to work harder.
She was right, of course. Sort of.
The rain would have really mattered.
The air would have smelled like hay.
Once, on a car trip from San
Francisco to Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, my mother told me about a long-ago train
trip she’d taken. We were at that moment
driving through an Iowa cornfield, and that is what reminded her. She said she sat next to a boy a little bit
older than she—maybe 20 or 21—and he told her that farmers said, “The corn is
knee-high by the Fourth of July.” She
never forgot that, she said. (Well, she’s
forgotten it now.) She said it
wistfully, and I, who was 20 or 21 at the time, knew without being told that
she had liked the boy and had always wondered what had happened to him and how
things might have been different.
Now, when I see a cornfield,
that is always what I think about. Her
memory has become mine, like a handed-down pair of shoes.
The things I like about
traveling are: staying in clean hotels, eating food that I didn’t have to cook,
seeing things I never really believed I would see (Westminster Abbey, Mount
Rushmore, the Eiffel Tower, the Mitchell, South Dakota Corn Palace), and
thinking about how people live. And
always, I come home with the realization that I can’t put myself into other
people’s daily routines. I can imagine
them, but I can’t know in the way that I want to.
When I was 17, I went to New
York by myself. My cousins took me to a
stage performance by Theodore Bikel, which I barely remember, because I sat in the
theater feeling overwhelmed with the feeling that I was Somewhere Else.
I’ve visited many people’s homes in many unfamiliar
places. But I think that was the closest
I ever came to being in other people’s lives.
Maybe it was because I was young and without defenses. Maybe it was because I hadn’t lived enough to
intellectualize my wonder and was experiencing it on an emotional, visceral
level. I don’t really know. What I do remember is coming back to my
cousin’s Upper West Side apartment, closing the door to the guest bedroom I’d
been given, and feeling that the air itself was made of different atoms and
that by breathing it, I was not quite filling my lungs, was gasping like a fish
just caught and flung into a boat
This is fantastic. Can't wait for the next excerpt!
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